Bargain brooch turns out to be rare Victorian gem
A woman’s rediscovery of a Victorian brooch, prompted by an Antiques Roadshow clip, was confirmed to be a William Burges design, mirroring past remarkable discoveries on the show. Delighting the expert, the brooch received an initial valuation before it heads to auction in 2024.
By Beth Snider · January 6, 2024
A historically significant brooch, purchased for less than £20 ($25 US) at a market in the 1980s, is set to make waves in the world of antiques. Designed by the eminent Victorian Gothic Revival architect William Burges, a silver, coral, lapis lazuli, and malachite brooch has recently resurfaced.
Flora Steel, a jewelry enthusiast, had stumbled upon her brooch at a Midlands antique market in 1988. Little did she know that her inexpensive purchase would soon become a valuable artifact with an illustrious history. The brooch, crafted by the visionary Victorian designer known for his iconic works, caught Ms. Steel’s eye with its strong design and unusual stones.
I always loved it and thought that it was so particular in its design—that sooner or later, I would discover who had designed it.
During the 2023 Christmas episode of Antiques Roadshow, Flora Steel, unaware of her possession’s historical significance, saw a familiar design. The program featured a clip from their ‘Most Wanted Finds’ (originally aired in 2011) and it led her to realize that her brooch matched the Burges designs showcased by Geoffrey Munn. The jewelry expert described the find as a “breathtaking discovery” during the episode giving that brooch a valuation of £8,000 - £10,000 as a starting point.
Flora paid a visit to the Victoria and Albert Museum to see the sketches shown on the program and confirmed her brooch matched the drawing as one of Burges’ creations for the wedding of an unknown individual named Gibson.
Steel was the third viewer to have recognized a similarity in their jewelry collection after seeing the Antiques Roadshow presentation on the artist. Munn’s quest for this set of brooches originated from their “significance as rare personal commissions,” as detailed by Gildings. These brooches were specially crafted for two weddings, intended for the bridesmaids of two friends of Burges. Utilizing silver, gold, crystal, and precious stones, and drawing inspiration from Japanese, Romanesque, and medieval motifs, Burges created “incredibly elegant and highly detailed pieces” that defy easy categorization, according to the V&A Museum.
In 2011, Jill Cousins also owned a brooch and had identified a design similar to hers on Antiques Roadshow. This recognition led to Ms. Cousins uncovering the value of her brooch made of silver, turquoise, and garnet. It was auctioned at Gildings surpassing all predictions, fetching a remarkable £31,000 ($39,000 US). Later the same year, another viewer had a matching piece and sold it privately to the V&A through Gildings.
With the rediscovered brooch now confirmed as another of Burges’s designs, it is set to be auctioned at Gildings’ specialist jewelry and watches auction in the spring of 2024. The guide price of £10,000 - £15,000 reflects the newfound appreciation for this Victorian gem, and with Steel’s initial purchase of less than £20, it should turn out to be quite the steal!
William Burges (1827–1881) was a notable English architect and designer in the Victorian era, striving to depart from the trends of 19th-century industrialization and Neoclassical architecture. His goal was to resurrect the values of a utopian medieval England. A key figure in the Gothic Revival, he enjoyed a brief yet remarkable career, securing his first major commission for Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral in 1863. Prominent among his works are Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch, both commissioned by the 3rd Marquess of Bute.
His portfolio spanned diverse structures, including churches, cathedrals, houses, and castles. His creative endeavors extended beyond architecture, encompassing metalwork, sculpture, and jewelry. While overshadowed for much of the 20th century, a resurgence of interest in Victorian art and architecture prompted a reevaluation of Burges’s multifaceted contributions in later decades.